XLV. Toledo

 

Brenna explored the City of Toledo today.  This city sits atop a hill encircled by an oxbow in the Tajo River with a long history and a medieval street layout.  This was a 90 minute drive from the house, 2 hours with Madrid traffic.  But her father handled the driving extremely well, so all arrived in great shape.  The strategically located city has been home to a Jewish, then Muslim, and now Christian population.  We parked at the foot of the hill, crossed a centuries-old bridge, and climbed up to the city along an old cobblestone trail.  We picnicked on the ramparts then started our explorations.  It may be best to describe our stops through Haikus:

First Stop – Cathedral

The El Greco was Lovely

I love my Father

 

The Cathedral was similar to others that we’ve toured, but had some unique qualities.  The high altar was covered in gold plating with a nine-foot statue of Christ at the very top.

 

 

 

The Sacristy featured works by El Greco (the local artist), Caravaggio, Rubens, Velaquez, and Bellini – all wonderful works completed before art became convoluted.  The priests are surrounded by such beauty in the green room of this Catholic church.

 

Second stop - San Juan

Offensively carved monkey

Dad is intell'gent

 

The San Juan de los Reyes Monastery was intended to be the burial site of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Ferdinand, but religious differences would not let that happen.  The cloister carvings featured a monkey – an insulting symbol of Franciscans – on a toilet reading the bible upside-down, thought to be a comment on the Franciscan pseudo-intellectualism (big libraries and small brains).

 

Third Stop – Museo

Macho sculptures came to life

Dad is my hero

At the Museo Victorio Macho, we were able to view a video on the history of Toledo before looking at the Macho sculptures, including his brother’s crypt.

 

 

Fourth Stop - Museum

Stately Renaissance Building

Dad makes great coffee

 

The free Santa Cruz Museum surrounds the special pay El Greco exhibit.  Docents quickly identify the non-paying customers and condescendingly point them to the back staircase where dim lighting and damp floors greet them.  This former orphanage and hospital plays host to a number of nice paintings, some brass relics, tiles, and papal vestments.  It was a good walk for us.

 

Of course, the day included other stops, not museum- or church-related.  For one, there was Taste of America – a store which catered to us.  Apparently, Europe thinks we like our candy, marshmallows, and cream of chicken soup.  Tempting was the pancake mix and syrup which we have not had here.  The mix and syrup was selling for 16 euros (about $22), so Dad nixed the idea.

 

 

Aunt Kenda was excited about the convent which sells mazapans. The process is to ring the special bell and put your payment on a turnstile.  After 5 minutes, the nuns reward your payment by placing a pastry on the turnstile.  Then you eat it in high regards knowing that it was commissioned by God himself.  We figured some greasy Spaniard named Inigo Montoya is hidden behind the door, but why ruin the dream. We found the convent, but it was closed.  A funny anomaly in Europe is the Siesta.  This is the time when the shops all close; it lasts from about noon until 1730 (5:30 p.m.). This is the time when the shop owners have lunch, take naps, and don’t make money off any of the tourists.  However, we did find mazapans, so all was not lost.

 

 

Another great day in Europe!

 

Anonymous Guest Writer